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b12man
Nirvanophile
Joined: 07 Aug 2006
Posts: 2153
Location: Lurking somewhere near...
Status: Offline
Xbox Live Gamertag: ForeignBrian 12
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08 Apr 2009 12:14 am |
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ITN_Tuning
a.k.a. Jaguara
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 537
Location: Rousse,Bulgaria
Status: Offline
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You should put a lot more efford than this, if you want to show ever some-
thing good quality. Oh, and the bonnet you pointed on your pic is the front
bumper. _________________
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08 Apr 2009 05:48 am |
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Burner
3D Artist
Joined: 22 Sep 2002
Posts: 412
Status: Offline
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I made this for someone else a long time ago, but it can apply here as well. You should use it to get a general idea how to set up and arrange polys and how to model in general. This is how I do every one of my cars.
Start out with a real simple rough shape, and just modify>break edges to add more divisions. When you break, the edges are going to be facing the wrong direction, so just modify>reorient them to line em up properly. Keep doing this until you have all the polys needed for your shape. Only add the polys nessacary, and only extrude when nessacary, it keeps the model from getting lumpy later on. This method makes it possible to make your model lower poly and very poly effecient, since it will only have the polys you need to accomplish a certain shape.
This method also makes high poly car making way easier. All you really have to do to have a real high poly car, is once you have the general shape of the car done and the details finished, you can just keep breaking/reorienting/extruding to smooth out areas that you can see the 'poly lines' until you dont see them anymore. That seems to impress people when you dont see poly lines
And I usually don't suggest this, but..Try using some blueprints next time. Google them, they are easy to find. Or you can model two of my original cars I made blueprints for
http://tjbp.net/upload/08cssbp1.jpg
http://tjbp.net/upload/08cssbp2.jpg
http://www.tjbp.net/upload/03ccabp1.jpg
http://www.tjbp.net/upload/03ccabp2.jpg _________________
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08 Apr 2009 11:04 pm |
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aaro4130
MM2C Maniac
Joined: 22 Feb 2009
Posts: 234
Location: At my laptop (hooked up to a monitor, keyboard, mouse, and speakers)
Status: Offline
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I did use blueprints, and they were good!
ps.nice sig for what you are telling me |
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08 Apr 2009 11:25 pm |
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Burner
3D Artist
Joined: 22 Sep 2002
Posts: 412
Status: Offline
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lol Well.. you gotta crawl before you can walk  _________________
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08 Apr 2009 11:39 pm |
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b12man
Nirvanophile
Joined: 07 Aug 2006
Posts: 2153
Location: Lurking somewhere near...
Status: Offline
Xbox Live Gamertag: ForeignBrian 12
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09 Apr 2009 03:43 am |
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Bradley_Wint
MM2C Guru
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 1640
Status: Offline
Xbox Live Gamertag: braddor
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Oh you use the break method... hmm
I used to do strip polying and then align my stuff...damn you alll...I wanna start modeling again. |
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09 Apr 2009 03:46 am |
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Dudes__Geof_
#mm2c ninja
Joined: 04 Sep 2003
Posts: 3512
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Status: Offline
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I usually make a flat surface and modify it as needed to get what I want, be it adding more polies, etc or go totally from scratch on some parts. Never thought to do it how Burner does... _________________
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09 Apr 2009 07:10 am |
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Jason
ಠ__ಠ

Joined: 25 Jul 2002
Posts: 4109
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
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I model the same way, except I use 3d Max. Saves alot of placement time. _________________
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09 Apr 2009 03:03 pm |
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aaro4130
MM2C Maniac
Joined: 22 Feb 2009
Posts: 234
Location: At my laptop (hooked up to a monitor, keyboard, mouse, and speakers)
Status: Offline
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b12man wrote: |
Burner, I'm impressed at your patience for this guy |
Off topic, like it matters since this forum is nearly inactive now. This is mainly for other people who come across this.
It was people like him who had the patience to help and (even if in the smallest ways) support me, who got me to where I am today
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28 Dec 2016 12:00 pm |
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